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COOKING WITH THE PAN

sharing food inspired by my background, travels, and places I've called home
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Homemade Flour Wraps with Lemon Roast Chicken, Hoisin, Scallion, and Cilantro

June 19, 2020

June 19, 2020

I developed my recipe for homemade flour wraps with lemon roast chicken, hoisin, scallion, and cilantro out of an intense craving for Peking duck wraps. I had been reminiscing on some of my favorite foods and thought back to one of my more recent experiences enjoying Peking duck when Kevin and I visited his family in Hong Kong. I can’t remember the exact establishment, but I definitely recall the meticulous serving process. The chef wheeled a cart to our table and lifted up a lid to reveal the glistening crispy exterior of a roasted duck. Each movement was reminiscent of a performance. He lifted his knife and with a few meticulous cuts into the whole duck, a plate of perfectly portioned duck meat along with crispy skin was served. We all watched each and every swift movement with close attention. The chef perfectly portioned out the servings of the duck before moving on to demonstrate the steps for enjoying a properly layered Peking duck wrap. The process starts with a piece of ultra-thin pancake, a swipe of plum sauce, a toss of julienned scallions and cilantro, and a topping of duck meat and crispy skin. I loved watching the process while eagerly waiting for my turn to build a wrap. Even thinking back to the experience made me crave Peking duck wraps even more. It has been almost half a year since we last saw Kevin’s family. The combination of missing authentic, nostalgic Chinese food and not knowing when exactly we would be able to see family again made me miss all of the moments we had connecting over good food. My intense cravings for Peking duck and limited access to groceries the last couple of months led me to develop my latest creation – homemade flour wraps with lemon roast chicken, hoisin, scallion, and cilantro. The textures and flavors of my newest creation was very reminiscent of the flavors and textures of Peking duck wraps. I started by roasting a whole chicken following the same way I season my salt and pepper roast chicken and adding the same aromatics and vegetables I use when preparing my garlic lemon roast chicken over vegetables. Roasting a whole chicken is one of the most versatile uses of a whole bird. I get to enjoy roast chicken for dinner, save any remaining chicken for my curried or spicy chicken salad, and reserve the remaining bones to make stock. The concentrated stock can then be transformed into chicken noodle soup the following day or chicken and dumplings. This time around, I roasted my chicken for just a tad longer in the oven to get the ultra-crispy exterior similar to the crispy texture of Peking duck. As the chicken was roasting away in the oven, I prepared a very simple stack of flour wraps, julienned scallions, and fresh cilantro stems from my herb garden to serve with the chicken. With just a drizzle of hoisin sauce served on the side (since I didn’t have any plum sauce on hand), dinner (and a dose of nostalgia) was ready to be served. When my chicken was done roasting, I let it rest for 15 minutes before cutting it up. The result was the most delightful crispy chicken skin and tender chicken meat. I followed the steps from my memory to build the wraps starting with a drizzle of hoisin sauce, a sprinkle of julienned scallions and cilantro, and a topping of chicken meat and crispy skin. Kevin got to enjoy the first wrap. With just one bite, he was completely sold. Kevin, who grew up in Hong Kong, was pleasantly surprised by how good the wraps were. I was very pleased with how easy it was to prepare. The wraps were so good, we ended up making it a few more times over the last couple of months. I just had to share my findings.   

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For the lemon roast chicken:

· gather the ingredients in my recipe for garlic lemon roast chicken over vegetables

For the flour wraps:

· 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for kneading the dough
· ½ teaspoon baking powder
· ½ teaspoon kosher salt
· ½ teaspoon granulated sugar
· 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 
· ¼-½ cup lukewarm water

· ¼ cup all-purpose flour

· vegetable oil, for frying  

For the rest of the wraps:

· 2 stalks scallions
· cilantro, for serving
· hoisin sauce, for serving   

Directions:

1) Preheat oven to 425°F. Prepare the ingredients in my recipe for garlic lemon roast chicken over vegetables. Leave the whole chicken intact when roasting. Truss the legs of the chicken prior to roasting. Roast the chicken for one hour and thirty minutes. While the chicken is roasting in the oven, prepare the flour wraps.

2) To make the flour wraps, in a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, kosher salt, granulated sugar, and vegetable oil. Gradually add in a quarter cup of lukewarm water, adding more water as needed. Begin kneading the ingredients until a dough is formed. If the dough is too wet, add more flour. If the dough is too dry, add more water. Continue to knead until a pliable dough is formed, about 5 minutes. Place a large plate (or sheet of plastic wrap) over the bowl. Let the dough rest for 30-45 minutes.

3) While the dough is resting, trim off the roots of the stalks of the scallions and julienne the scallions. Trim off longer stems of the cilantro. Set aside the julienned scallions and trimmed cilantro for serving.   

4) Once the dough is done resting, lightly flour a working surface. Transfer the dough to the working surface. Use a rolling pin to gently press down and roll out the dough into a thick circle. Use a bench scraper to cut the dough in half vertically. Then, cut the dough in half horizontally until you have four triangular pieces. Cut each of the triangular pieces into three equal pieces util you form twelve total triangular pieces of dough. Roll each piece of dough into a ball. Set aside the balls of dough. To make the wraps, prepare a small bowl of flour using the ¼ cup of all-purpose flour. Sprinkle a small bit of flour onto a surface and begin rolling out the pieces of dough balls into a flat circle one by one onto a lightly floured surface. Continue this process until all dough balls have been rolled into flat circles.

5) Heat a skillet on medium heat. Add a teaspoon of vegetable oil. Once hot, transfer one of the flat circles to the pan. Fry for about 30 seconds on each side. Transfer the fried flour wrap to a plate. Continue this process until all of the wraps have been fried. Set aside.

6) Once the chicken is done roasting, let the chicken cool for at least 15 minutes before cutting into the chicken. When carving the chicken, begin by cutting the legs on both sides, followed by the wings and breasts. Reserve the crispy chicken skin to serve alongside the chicken meat in the wraps.   

7) To build the wraps, grab a piece of flour wrap, drizzle on some hoisin sauce, sprinkle on the julienned scallions and cilantro, top with the sliced chicken meat and skin. Fold or roll up the wrap and take a bite.  

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Takeaways: Save the remaining chicken to make some curried chicken salad or spicy chicken salad. Reserve the chicken bones to make chicken stock. I like to pour the roasted vegetables and juices from the roasted chicken directly into a slow cooker. I then add a few cups of water, a couple sprigs of thyme, a bay leaf, and a few sprigs of parsley to the slow cooker. I close the lid, set the slow cooker to low heat and let the chicken and company cook for anywhere from 8 hours to overnight. The next day, I have some hot chicken stock waiting to be enjoyed. The chicken stock forms the base for chicken noodle soup or chicken and dumplings. Stay tuned for my chicken and dumplings recipe in a future post.

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Tags: savory
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Hello! My name is Jia Pan and I love to experiment with food. My site is a collection of recipes and stories chronicling my adventures in the kitchen and around the world.
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December 17, 2023

December 17, 2023

Winter in New England is truly a wonderful experience. The temperature has steadily dropped as well, which means out comes the winter hats, gloves, scarves, thick sweaters, and cozy socks. The transition to winter is an exciting time in New England since there is just so much to do not just in Massachusetts but also in the neighboring states. Over the last couple of months, Z has grown into such an energetic toddler. To help expend some of her energy, we’ve been taking her to a ton of local events in the neighboring states. Aside from all these adventures with Z, I’ve been actively working to develop more recipes to share on my site. A few months ago, when I was developing my recipe for egg tarts with a twist, I was simultaneously working on a recipe for my take on bo lo bao (or pineapple bun). Pineapple bun is a beloved bakery item that I grew up eating in Brooklyn. Contrary to the name, there is no pineapple in the bun (although, I have seen some bakeries incorporate pineapple into the actual buns). The name comes from the golden yellow cookie topping that is perfectly positioned at the top of a fluffy milky bun. The cookie topping forms a crack while baking in the oven. Once baked, the cookie topping resembles the appearance of a pineapple or bo lo. I wanted to combine my family’s love for bo lo bao with another family favorite, char siu bao, and ended up creating a barbecue chicken bo lo bao. My barbecue chicken bo lo bao is essentially a twist on a twist of two classic Chinese bakery buns combined into one. I grew to love bo lo bao mainly because my dad loves it. He would buy bo lo baos at the local Chinese bakeries near my childhood home in Brooklyn for breakfast, lunch, and even dinner at times. His love for bo lo bao spilled over to my brothers and I, and we often find ourselves craving bo lo bao whenever we walked by a Chinese bakery. Kevin, on the other hand, grew up in Hong Kong and has had his fair share of bo lo baos throughout his time living there. He remembers fondly the features of truly delectable bo lo baos especially when they are freshly baked and eaten straight out of the oven. For both of us, the hallmark of an excellent bo lo bao is the balance of a fluffy milky bread base and a crunchy cookie topping baked to golden perfection. A bo lo bao isn’t a bo lo bao unless there is a golden yellow cookie topping resembling the appearance of a pineapple positioned perfectly on top of the fluffy bread. Bo lo baos are best enjoyed when they are still warm out of the oven with the crunchy cookie topping intact. When I set out to recreate the bo lo bao, I thought back to my memories of the perfect bo lo bao before diving into research to recreate a version as close as possible to the ones I ate throughout my childhood. One bread baking technique that is often used in Chinese bakeries is tangzhong (or water roux). Essentially, you precook a portion of the liquid and flour to create a roux and then fold the roux directly into the bread dough during mixing. The addition of the tangzhong is what contributes to the ultra-fluffy, super soft bread texture. Tangzhong is often used in milk breads to help them achieve the signature fluffy texture. The tangzhong combined with letting the dough sufficiently rest is what results in the ideal pillowy texture of the bread. Ever since I incorporated tangzhong into bread baking, it has become such a game changer. Time after time, batch after batch, the bread always turns out ultra pillowy and soft. I’ve started to incorporate tangzhong into baking as often as possible whenever I want a reliably fluffy bread. On colder days, all I want to do is to bake up batches of these delicious bo lo baos to serve alongside some milk tea. For me, there is nothing more relaxing on a cold weekend than enjoying a bo lo bao straight out of the oven with a cup of steaming hot milk tea.

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December 17, 2023
Egg Tarts with A Twist and Summer Adventures with Z
September 4, 2023
Egg Tarts with A Twist and Summer Adventures with Z
September 4, 2023

September 3, 2023

Happy summer! It has been a while since I last posted. I’ve been spending all of my time outside of work planning fun family activities to keep Z occupied throughout the summer. She has reached the stage where she has tons of energy and needs to expend the energy daily. We’ve had a couple of beach days, seen some family-friendly shows, strolled through historic homes in New England, visited museums throughout Massachusetts, and even had our first semi-long family road trip to Bar Harbor. When we aren’t out and about as a family, I’ve been testing out new recipes and refining upcoming recipes to share on my site. One recipe I have been working on and am finally ready to share is my take on Portuguese-style egg tarts, inspired by the famous egg tarts sold throughout Macau and Hong Kong. These egg tarts are also a favorite dim sum dish of ours. Dim sum is a dining ritual we’ve had in our family since childhood. I still remember fondly all the moments during my childhood where I would go to dim sum with my family and order all my favorite dishes. I would always go for the shrimp dishes (usually har cheung or har gow) and finish with a sweet treat during dim sum. The sweet treat of choice ranged from ma lai go to sesame ball with red bean paste to egg tarts. Egg tarts are truly amazing when enjoyed straight out of the oven. As much as I love the traditional egg tarts, I also love the Portuguese-style egg tarts. Portuguese-style egg tarts differ from traditional egg tarts in some fundamental ways. Portuguese-style egg tarts tend to have a puff pastry crust and an egg custard made with egg yolks baked at a high temperature to yield toasty brown spots. I love eating these egg tarts whenever I’m in Hong Kong or Macau. They’re one of my favorite dim sum treats to enjoy toward the end of the meal when I want something sweet to balance out the savory dim sum dishes. During the first few years when Kev and I dated, we vacationed in Macau and had the opportunity to enjoy freshly baked Portuguese-style egg tarts. The experience of biting into a piping hot egg tart straight out of the oven is a truly decadent experience. For a moment, all the world seems to fade away as I bite into the buttery, flaky crust before my teeth sinks into the silky, smooth egg custard filling. I would describe the Portuguese-style egg tart as a fun cousin to the traditional egg tart. With my parents staying with us in Massachusetts for the time being, we’ve jump started our dim sum ritual once again. Every other weekend, we would head over to Ming’s Seafood Restaurant in Malden to get our fix of dim sum. My mom’s go-to dim sum dishes are always beef tripe and chicken feet. My dad opts for the lo mai gai (glutinous rice and filling wrapped in lotus leaves) and sesame ball filled with red bean paste. Although Kev usually goes for xiao long bao, he hasn’t found a worthy substitute near us. So, he just eats whatever we order for the table. I go with my usual har cheung and har gow and occasional egg tart. Since I started making egg tarts at home myself, we’ve been ordering egg tarts a lot less frequently during dim sum. Egg tarts are composed of two parts – the flaky shell or crust and the egg custard filling. For the shell or crust, I like to make a more decadent version of my shortcrust pastry dough, essentially the dough I use for all my pies. Egg tarts also require special tart tins, so I ordered a set just to make them. It’s worth it to order a set of these tins if you make tarts a lot like we do in our home. Whenever I crave egg tarts, I just whip up the shortcrust dough in my food processor and shape the dough right away in the mini tart baking tins. I then transfer the tins to the refrigerator to let the dough chill in the tins for about twenty minutes. As the dough is chilling in the refrigerator, I move onto making the egg custard filling, which is composed of just four ingredients – egg yolks, granulated sugar, whole milk, and heavy cream. A fifth, but totally optional ingredient is vanilla bean paste, which I sometimes add to the egg tarts to give them another fragrant flavor. I whisk these ingredients together thoroughly and then strain them through a sieve a couple times to remove air bubbles. Straining the egg custard filling helps ensure a smoother egg custard filling in the egg tarts. I pour the prepared filling into the shortcrust dough filled tins and bake the tarts in the oven for 20-23 minutes at 425°F. Once the egg tarts have baked for twenty minutes, I check on them and see if they need a smidge more baking time. I always check for brown spots on the egg tarts as a sign that the egg tarts are well on their way to being done. The egg tarts do need to cool for a bit straight out of the oven before enjoying. Otherwise, you will end up with a burned mouth. For a coconut twist on the egg tarts, I folded in a half cup of coconut flakes into half of the shortcrust dough before filling the tins with the dough. These egg tarts with a twist are perfect for a weekend brunch, afternoon tea, or dim sum at home. My parents, who are usually traditionalists when it comes to dim sum dishes, voiced how much they liked the coconut twist on egg tarts. We even packed leftover egg tarts to enjoy during our family trip to the beach.

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September 4, 2023
Dragon Fruit Strawberry Cupcakes and Z’s First Birthday
May 29, 2023
Dragon Fruit Strawberry Cupcakes and Z’s First Birthday
May 29, 2023

May 29, 2023

Z has officially reached a new milestone this month. She turned one year old and has been walking with some assistance. For such a momentous occasion for Kev and I, we had to celebrate in a special way. I thought back to all our adventures with Z throughout the year and still cannot believe how quickly time has flown by. The early days were much longer than we would like, but watching Z grow from day to day has brought us so much joy. I remember exactly a year ago in May when we brought Z home from the hospital. She was a tiny baby weighing just over six pounds. The early days were the most challenging days. We operated on very little sleep and had to return to work fairly quickly. Kev had two months to bond with Z. I had slightly less. Luckily for us, aside from some challenges with sleeping through the night, Z cooperated with us for the most part. She ate pretty much anything we offered and reached all her milestones at the predicted times. Watching Z grow from a tiny baby to a tiny human has been an absolute joy. When I look at her today, I still cannot believe the tiny human half my height was only born a year ago. As her birthday approached this year, I had to think of a special way to celebrate. I did some googling and brainstorming for inspiration. Though there were a lot of ideas out there on the internet, I wanted to do something unique for Z. I wanted to center her birthday celebration on a children’s book theme. When I came across The Wonderful Things You Will Be book sitting on her bookshelf, the idea for her birthday celebration was born. Wonderful became onederful or 1derful of course. With the theme decided, I shifted my focus to the desserts. Growing up in our household, desserts tend to be on the simpler side. We usually had a sponge cake with cream and fresh fruit that my parents bought from a local bakery and a plate of fruits. I wanted to apply the same tradition to Z’s birthday and merged a celebratory treat with a realistic baby-friendly sweet. Z would get a variety of fruits, while we would get to enjoy the baked treats. Z ended up with a fruit plate. We ended up with cupcakes and cake pops. Z’s cupcakes and cake pops had to be special and different from the ones I typically make, so I decided to merge my go-to strawberry cupcakes with red dragon fruit. I opted to add red dragon fruit to strawberry cupcakes mainly because of the Barbie-like pink color found naturally in the red dragon fruit. I first tested out the combination of dragon fruit and strawberries when developing a dragon fruit raspberry hot chocolate recipe for the colder months. I interchanged the raspberries and strawberries in the hot chocolate recipe as they both offer the same type of sweet and slight tart balance to the hot chocolate. I loved the combination of the slightly sweet dragon fruit paired with the sweet and tart strawberries so much that I extended the flavor profile to my cupcakes and cake pops. Dragon fruit itself has a mild sweetness to it and pairs perfectly with strawberries. When combined, the dragon fruit and strawberry puree gives the cupcakes and frosting an eye-catching pink dessert reminiscent of Barbiecore pink. The bright vibrant pink comes naturally from the red dragon fruit and is enhanced further from the redness of the strawberries. I only buy red dragon fruit occasionally because of how expensive it is. Red dragon fruit is texturally like a kiwi, but is much less sweet with a slight tartness to it. Folded into cupcakes, you get not only a delicious sweet treat, but a truly stunning pink treat. My cupcake recipe yielded exactly twelve cupcakes, which fit perfectly into a 12-cup muffin tin. Half of the cupcakes were served as cupcakes, while the rest were crumbled into a bowl, mixed with some frosting, and turned into cake balls for cake pops. The cake pops were dipped into colored candy melts and left to harden. I only used white, red, yellow, and blue candy melts for the cake pops, mixing some of the colors together as needed to form orange and purple for other color options. To allow the cake pops to harden without disturbance, I used the back of a collapsible silicone colander as a makeshift cake pop holder. The candy-coated cake pops were intended to look like balloons that floated on the cover of the children’s book. The best part about these treats is the stunning Barbie-like pink color comes naturally from the colors of the fruits without the added food coloring. Since Z’s palate is still developing at this age, a mild fruit such as dragon fruit was the perfect fruit for her to try. To round out the rest of our dessert spread, we had to have an equally stunning fruit plate, a must-have in our household. We served it up to Z just so she can get a head start on our family traditions. With the fruit plate, cupcakes, and cake pops all prepared, we just had to snap some photos before digging right into the lovely desserts.  

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May 29, 2023
A Strawberry Twist on Iconic Black and White Cookies
March 31, 2023
A Strawberry Twist on Iconic Black and White Cookies
March 31, 2023

March 31, 2023

I have been working on recreating the iconic black and white cookies over the last couple of months. Black and white cookies are classic New York City treats. When I lived in New York City, I would see them in bakeries throughout Brooklyn and Manhattan. Even so, I’ve only had them occasionally. I still remember my first time taking a bite out of the black and white cookie from Zaro’s Bakery. The soft yet springy cookie topped with a vanilla and chocolate glaze was absolute perfection. It was as if a cookie and a cake had a baby. Whenever I passed by the Amtrak station in Manhattan, I would purposely make a stop at Zaro’s Bakery for one of its black and white cookies. I even served up individually packed versions of black and white cookies from Stern’s Bakery back in 2018 when Kev and I got married in Queens. Needless to say, black and white cookies are as dear to me as some of the more iconic New York City treats. I am, of course, referring to my love of pizza, bagels, and pretzels. Because of how accessible the cookies are, it never even crossed my mind to recreate them. That changed a couple months ago, when I had intense cravings for black and white cookies. While the options around me were sufficient, I really missed the version of black and white cookies from Zaro’s Bakery. I remember distinctly the mega size, the strong vanilla flavor of the cookie base and the balance of chocolate and vanilla glaze coated over the top of the cookie. In reality, the glaze actually coated the bottom of the cookies since they’re flipped over after baking. Either way, the glaze is an essential element of the black and white cookie. I decided it was time to try and recreate a classic black and white cookie. I scoured the web for sources on what actually went into the black and white cookies at Zaro’s Bakery and ended up watching one too many YouTube videos as I gathered information. I then shifted to developing and testing out the cookie recipe. I tested different ratios of ingredients and kept close notes of each iteration. After multiple tries and feedback from Kev and my mom, I finally settled on my preferred version. I found that a combination of cake flour and all-purpose flour yielded the perfect black and white cookies. Cake flour provided the cookies with tenderness, while all-purpose flour provided the cookies with structure. Adding just vanilla extract was not enough to give the cookie the extra oomph it needed and so I took a page from Stern’s Bakery and folded lemon zest into the batter. Other ingredients for the cookies included butter, sugar, honey, kosher salt, egg, sour cream, baking powder, and milk. I learned that many of these ingredients were necessary for helping the cookies stay moist, and they were essential in the version from Zaro’s. A couple tablespoons of pureed strawberries folded into the batter made these cookies exceptional. The addition of pureed strawberries yielded a tangy, sweet cookie with a fresh strawberry flavor. To appease all the cookie lovers in our home, I created three options for the glaze to top the cookies with. The simple glaze consisted of pairing black and white, black and pink, and white and pink for three varieties of cookies. The white part of the cookie came from a simple glaze made with confectioners’ sugar, corn syrup, and vanilla extract. The black part of the cookie came from the addition of cocoa powder. The pink part of the cookie came from the pureed strawberries. I baked and decorated a batch of these cookies for Valentine’s Day last month as a treat for my family. I even reserved a pink and white version as a smash cookie for Z. Z couldn’t quite figure out how to taste the cookie, but she sure did have a good time smashing the cookie with her fingers. Only time will tell if these cookies will be a home run for her. Enjoy these cookies as my nod to New York City with a twist.  

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March 31, 2023